Hey Reader—
Harvest is officially behind me, and this weekend, for the first time in what feels like forever, I have absolutely nothing I have to do. No wines to check on at the winery. No Flipturn events to pour at. No travel. Just an honest-to-goodness free weekend.
So naturally, I’m going wine tasting. I’ve also got some much-needed QT with friends on the calendar, and Tony and I are deep into our October tradition of watching a spooky movie together almost every night leading up to Halloween. But tomorrow, my friend Emily and I are heading out to the Willamette Valley to Balsall Creek and J.K. Carriere. Balsall is running a special Oktoberfest tasting menu that pairs their wines with sausage. And I’m saving the full wine-and-sausage pairing breakdown for next week’s issue, so stay tuned!
This week, I want to chat about a grape I almost never get to try.
A few nights ago, some friends and I met up at Dogwood, a cute little wine bar here in Portland, and we ended up splitting a bottle of Lemberger — or Blaufränkisch, depending on where in the world you are. More on that specific bottle down in Wine of the Week, but tasting it got me excited to share more about it with you.
Let’s get into it.
Cheers,
Sip Smarter: Your Weekly Wine Lesson
Lemberger (aka Blaufränkisch) 101: One Grape, Two Names, Very Underrated
I rarely get the chance to drink this grape, and that’s a shame, because it’s one of the more distinctive reds out there.
If you see “Blaufränkisch” on a label, you’re looking at Austria’s version. If you see “Lemberger” (sometimes “Blauer Limberger”), you’re looking at Germany’s. In Hungary, it’s Kékfrankos. Same grape, three names, depending on which side of the border it’s grown on.
The name “Blaufränkisch” breaks down pretty literally: blau means “blue,” referring to the dark-skinned berries, and Fränkisch was a medieval term used to flag a noble or high-quality variety. It first turns up in the written record in Austria in the second half of the 1700s, though it’s likely been around even longer than that.
Where it’s famously grown
Burgenland, Austria: This is Blaufränkisch’s heartland, and Austria’s most important red wine region. It’s the country’s second most-planted red grape after Zweigelt, concentrated in DAC zones like Mittelburgenland, Leithaberg, and Eisenberg, where it thrives in a dry, continental climate.
Württemberg, Germany: Across the border, Lemberger has quietly become one of Germany’s most-planted red grapes, almost entirely confined to this one region near Stuttgart. It actually edges out Pinot Noir there in plantings, which surprises a lot of people.
Hungary: Grown as Kékfrankos, especially in regions like Sopron and Eger.
Here in the U.S.: Washington State is the big story, especially Red Mountain, where Kiona planted the grape back in 1980 (more on that below). New York’s Finger Lakes has a small but dedicated following for it too.
Same grape, very different wine
Like so many grapes we’ve talked about in this newsletter, climate and winemaking choices change Blaufränkisch/Lemberger dramatically:
Cooler Austrian sites (Burgenland): Taut, structured, and mineral, with real aging potential. These can be serious wines worth cellaring.
Germany (Württemberg): Typically lighter-bodied and with softer tannins than the Austrian versions, often an easy, early-drinking style.
Warmer New World sites (like Red Mountain): Riper, rounder, and more fruit-forward, since the grape is getting a lot more heat.
What to expect in the glass
Across styles, this is a dry, deeply colored red (think deep ruby to almost purple) with medium-high acidity and medium-high tannin. Typical flavors run toward blackberry, black cherry, dark chocolate, allspice, and black pepper, often with a mineral or savory edge depending on the site.
Fun fact for trivia night: Blaufränkisch is actually a parent grape of Zweigelt, Austria’s most-planted red. Zweigelt was deliberately crossed from Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent in the 1920s, so in a way, the “more famous” Austrian red owes its existence to this one.
Why I love it
It’s a grape with real personality. It can be funky, savory, and a little wild in a way that reminds me of the Rhône-style reds I already love, but it’s still food-friendly and approachable. If you’ve never had it, I think it’s worth seeking out — and I happen to have one to recommend. Keep scrolling.
Vine To Glass
Kiona 2022 Lemberger — Red Mountain, Washington
There were two reasons I reached for this Lemberger from Kiona when I was at Dogwood. First, as I mentioned above, I rarely get the chance to try this grape and couldn’t pass up the opportunity. Second, Kiona is personal for me — I actually sourced my Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from them for my 2021 Flipturn vintage, so I always love an excuse to try more of what they’re doing.
About the Producer
Kiona farms on Red Mountain, in Eastern Washington’s Yakima Valley — about as warm and arid a site as you’ll find Lemberger growing anywhere in the world. Kiona planted it anyway, and in 1980 produced the first commercial bottling of Lemberger in the United States. That original 1.8-acre planting has since grown to over 13 acres.
This bottling is 97% Lemberger and 3% Merlot, aged gently in neutral oak so the fruit stays front and center. Given the warmth of the site, this leans into the riper, rounder style we talked about above, rather than the taut, structured style you’d find in Austria.
My Tasting Notes
This wine is rich, full-bodied, and dark-fruited, with real depth to it. What stood out most to me was the nose: there’s a funky, barnyard quality to it that I absolutely love, very reminiscent of the Rhône-style reds I gravitate toward. The acidity and tannins are both soft, which makes it feel luscious rather than grippy, and it’s exactly the kind of wine I want heading into winter.
What I’d Pair It With
We’re going deep on wine-and-sausage pairings next week, but I think this wine would be a great match for something smokier or more savory, like kielbasa or a garlicky Italian sausage. Beyond that, I’d also pour it with:
- Grilled or roasted meats
- Mushroom-forward dishes
- Aged cheeses
- Hearty stews as the weather turns
If you’ve only ever had Blaufränkisch from Europe, Kiona’s version is a fun one to put next to it. Same grape, very different wine — and proof that Red Mountain can do a lot more than just Cabernet.
Cork Report
This Week’s Wine News Roundup
- California Zinfandel Is Making a Comeback—and It’s Better Than Ever
- 12 Things Even Wine Experts Get Wrong
- The 4 Best Red Wines to Drink This Fall
