Hey Reader—
Thanksgiving is less than two weeks away, which means we've officially entered a busy (yet festive) stretch of the year: the one where my calendar is completely stacked with Flipturn tasting events, and my job for the next few weeks is helping people get well stocked up for the holiday season.
So that's exactly what I want to do for you too. Over the next few newsletters, I'll be sharing some of my go-to picks: wines worth having on hand whether you need something reliable for your own table, a bottle to bring to someone else's gathering, or backup for whenever hosting duty inevitably lands on you.
Let's get into it.
Cheers,
Sip Smarter: Your Weekly Wine Lesson
Mencía 101: The Grape Hiding in Tempranillo's Shadow
My distributor had a massive case discount on a gorgeous Mencía from Spain last week (more on that bottle below), so naturally, I ordered a case to have on hand for the holidays—the kind of wine I can bring to a gathering or pour alongside basically anything on a Thanksgiving table.
It got me thinking that Mencía deserves its own spotlight this week, because it's a grape that gets completely overshadowed by Tempranillo in Spain, despite being delicious, incredibly food-friendly, and often a steal because it's still flying under the radar.
Where it comes from
Mencía is native to northwest Spain, with its stronghold in Bierzo, a small, dramatic region tucked into the corner of Castilla y León, right up against the Galician border.
You'll also find it in Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras, both in Galicia proper, and in Portugal's Dão region, where the exact same grape goes by a different name: Jaén.
For decades, Bierzo's Mencía had a reputation problem. Post-phylloxera, growers planted it on the fertile valley floor, where it churned out high yields and pretty forgettable wine. It wasn't until a wave of ambitious producers started digging into the region's old, high-altitude, terraced vineyards (some of them over a century old, planted on steep slate and granite slopes) that people realized what Mencía could actually do. That rediscovery is a big part of why Bierzo is one of the more exciting regions in Spain right now.
A fun fact worth knowing
For years, there was a popular theory that Mencía was secretly Cabernet Franc, supposedly carried into Spain centuries ago by pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago.
DNA testing eventually confirmed that Mencía is genetically distinct from Cabernet Franc, and is instead identical to Jaén, the grape grown in Portugal's Dão region. Mencía, it turns out, has been Iberian the whole time.
What it tastes like
Mencía is medium-bodied, with bright acidity and soft, approachable tannin, somewhere in the neighborhood of Pinot Noir, Gamay, or other lighter, aromatic reds.
Expect red and purple fruit (raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry), violet and floral notes, black pepper, baking spice, and that crushed gravel or granite-like minerality that's become something of a signature for wines from Bierzo.
Some bottles lean brighter and more floral; others, especially from older vines or with a little oak aging, get smokier and more savory.
Why it's so good for the holidays
Mencía is one of the most genuinely food-friendly red wines out there, which makes it an easy pick for a Thanksgiving table that's juggling turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and a dozen competing side dishes all at once. Its brightness and moderate tannin mean it won't clash with turkey the way a big, tannic red can, and it has enough savory depth to stand up to gravy, roasted root vegetables, or a smoky stuffing without overwhelming anything.
A few pairing ideas for the season:
- Roast turkey (light enough not to fight it, savory enough to stand up to the whole spread)
- Stuffing, especially anything with sausage or mushrooms
- Cranberry sauce (that bright acidity loves a little tartness)
- Glazed ham, if that's more your holiday style
- Cured meats and charcuterie boards, for pre-dinner grazing
Next time you're shopping for something to bring to a holiday gathering, or just want a reliable red to keep on hand through the season, look for Mencía at your local wine shop. It's wildly food-friendly, it's rarely overpriced, and it gives you a genuinely interesting pour without asking your guests to get too adventurous.
Vine To Glass
Wine Of The Week: Vinos de Arganza "Seculo" Mencía, Bierzo (Castilla y León)
I have to tell you the story behind this one, straight from my distributor, because it's a little absurd.
Apparently there's a Kansas City–based, Basque-born sourcing connection, Josu, one of the better contacts for Spanish wine in the business, and somewhere along the way, my distributor and Josu ended up watching the Chiefs game together in Seattle. A friendly bet followed. I wasn't there and I don't have the specifics, but however it worked out, the end result was a genuinely ridiculous case discount on this Mencía, and I was not about to pass it up.
I ordered a full case to have on hand through the holidays: wine to bring to events, and to pour alongside basically everything on the Thanksgiving table.
About the Producer
Vinos de Arganza is based in Toral de los Vados, right in the heart of DO Bierzo. The winery was founded in 1966, though it didn't start producing wine under its own label until the 2000 vintage. They farm about 20 hectares of their own vineyards, supplemented with long-term contracts with other growers around the region.
Bierzo itself sits in the northwest corner of Castilla y León, practically touching Galicia, with vineyards planted on slate and granite soils at relatively low elevation (500 to 650 meters), which helps protect against late frost and usually means an earlier harvest than the rest of Castile.
"Seculo" is their Mencía Roble bottling, meaning it spends some time in oak, though nowhere near as much as a Crianza or Reserva would. It's one of several Mencía labels Vinos de Arganza produces, and plenty of their lineup has picked up strong scores from Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling over the years. This particular bottling came in wood boxes and picked up 90 points from James Suckling, who noted "aromas of ripe blackberries, blueberries, dried herbs, lavender, cocoa and earth" on the nose.
My Tasting Notes
This is a wine built for easy drinking, but don't let that fool you: The 2020 bottle I have has good age on it, so there's real depth in the glass. The nose has a funky edge, with a layer of smokiness woven through the red and purple fruit. It actually reminds me quite a bit of Tempranillo (that same smoked hickory, almost BBQ-adjacent quality), but brighter and lighter.
If you want a style reference, think somewhere between a Beaujolais Chénas and a Southern Rhône Lirac: the lifted, floral fruit of the former, with a touch of the savory, spiced depth of the latter.
I wouldn't cellar this one much longer; it's drinking beautifully right now, and that's exactly how I plan to enjoy it. Not that it'll be a problem: this case will be gone well before the new year!
What I'd Pair It With
- Roast turkey or turkey sandwiches (hello, leftovers!)
- Stuffing with sausage, herbs, or mushrooms
- Cranberry sauce
- Grilled or roasted root vegetables
- Charcuterie, especially smoked or cured meats, to play off that smokiness in the glass
If you can still track down a bottle of this particular one, grab it. But more than that, let this be your nudge to go find a Mencía of your own this season. It's exactly the kind of wine that over-delivers for the price, and your holiday table will thank you.
Cork Report
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