Hey Reader—
Happy almost-July 4th! I hope your holiday weekend is filled with all the good stuff — cold drinks, warm weather, delicious food, and plenty of time spent with the people you love.
I'm keeping it local this year, hanging around Portland, hitting up a few backyard BBQs and casual hangs with friends.
And speaking of good food and wine — if you're firing up the grill this weekend, I've got a few quick pairing ideas for classic July 4th fare that might come in handy:
(I also just posted a list of my favorite summer wines from June over on Instagram for some warm weather-sipping inspiration—hit Reply if you don't have Instagram and I can email you the list)
Burgers: A juicy Syrah or Malbec! The fruit-forward character stands up to all the toppings and condiments without feeling too heavy in the heat. If you want to go white, a dry Rosé is always a crowd-pleaser alongside burgers — especially a Rosé with a little extra skin contact for a bit more body to hold up to a burger.
Hot dogs: Don't overthink this one. A crisp, dry Rosé or a chilled Pinot Noir is perfect. Hot dogs are casual, so your wine should be too.
Potato salad: The creaminess loves a wine with good acidity. A Sauvignon Blanc, a Grüner Veltliner, or even a Pinot Grigio will cut right through the richness and keep things refreshing.
Watermelon salad: If you're doing the watermelon-feta-mint thing (and you should), reach for something light and slightly herbal — a Vinho Verde or a dry Rosé works beautifully here.
Strawberry shortcake: A Moscato d'Asti, or a demi-sec sparkling wine with a little sweetness will echo the fruit without competing with the whipped cream. If you're seeking a drier wine for dessert: A chillable Gamay, or Lambrusco (for a fizzy red option) would both crush it with Strawberry shortcake.
Finally, don't stress about pairing wine perfectly at a cookout. The best bottle is the one you enjoy drinking. When in doubt, Rosé and sparkling wines are basically the Swiss Army knives of BBQ season — they go with everything.
With that, let's get into this week's wine digest.
Cheers,
Sip Smarter: Your Weekly Wine Lesson
Aligoté 101 — Burgundy's Best-Kept Secret
This past weekend, mr friend, Emily, and I went wine tasting in the Willamette Valley and visited Balsall Creek Vineyards out in the Chehalem Mountains. I've been wanting to check them out for a while, and it did not disappoint.
But what really stopped me in my tracks was their Aligoté. (Pronounced "al-ee-go-TAY.")
If you've never heard of Aligoté, you're not alone. It's one of those grapes that has lived in the shadow of its more famous sibling for centuries. But it's absolutely worth knowing about, especially if you're looking for a refreshing white wine that's a total change of pace from Chardonnay.
So let's break it down.
What is Aligoté?
Aligoté is a white grape variety that originates from Burgundy, France, where it's been grown since the 17th century. Here's a fun fact: DNA analysis has shown that Aligoté is actually the result of a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc — which means it shares the exact same parentage as Chardonnay. They're literally sibling grapes. Same parents, very different personalities.
Aligoté is the second most commonly grown white grape in Burgundy after Chardonnay, though it covers far less vineyard area. For a long time, it was considered the "lesser" grape — relegated to less desirable vineyard sites while Chardonnay got the prime real estate. It was even historically the go-to base wine for the Kir Cocktail (white wine mixed with crème de cassis), which tells you something about how it was perceived for a long time. The thinking was: if you needed to add a blackcurrant liqueur to make it taste good, it must not be that great on its own.
But that reputation is changing fast.
The Aligoté Renaissance
Over the past couple of decades, a new generation of winemakers has started taking Aligoté seriously. One of the biggest champions? Aubert de Villaine — the co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, one of the most prestigious wine estates in the world. He purchased a vineyard in the village of Bouzeron in the 1970s and worked to get it recognized as its own appellation dedicated exclusively to Aligoté. If the person behind one of the most legendary Pinot Noir producers in the world is going to bat for this grape, that's a pretty strong endorsement.
Today, there's even an advocacy group in France called Les Aligoteurs — a play on "Aligoté" and "auteur" (meaning creator) — dedicated to promoting the grape and demonstrating that it can produce serious, terroir-driven wine.
What does Aligoté taste like?
This is where it gets fun. Aligoté is known for its vibrant, mouthwatering acidity — it's bright and lively in a way that really wakes up your palate. Common tasting notes include green apple, lemon, citrus zest, white flowers, and a chalky or flinty minerality. Some versions show hints of pear, almond, or herbal and saline notes.
The key difference from Chardonnay? Aligoté tends to be leaner, more mineral-driven, and higher in acid. Where Chardonnay can range from crisp and steely to rich and buttery depending on how it's made, Aligoté usually stays in the fresh, bright, mineral lane. It's the kind of wine that makes you want to take another sip immediately.
There are actually two main types of Aligoté in Burgundy: Aligoté doré (the golden variety — considered superior, with more aromatic complexity and lower yields) and Aligoté vert (the green variety — more common and often a bit more herbaceous). Both have their charms, but the doré is generally the one that turns heads.
Where is Aligoté growing beyond Burgundy?
Aligoté does well in cooler climates. Beyond Burgundy, it's been grown across Eastern Europe — in Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova, and Ukraine — sometimes in even greater quantities than in France. And now, it's quietly putting down roots in Oregon.
About 20 producers in Oregon are now making Aligoté, and this past May, Balsall Creek Vineyards hosted the very first Aligoté Affair — the first event in North America dedicated entirely to Aligoté wines. Twelve Oregon producers poured together, showcasing how this grape translates across the Willamette Valley's diverse growing regions. The fact that this grape has its own dedicated festival in Oregon tells you something about the momentum it's building.
Why should you try it?
If you love crisp, refreshing whites but want something beyond Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio — and especially if you want an alternative to Chardonnay — Aligoté is your grape. It's incredibly food-friendly (more on that below), it's usually very well-priced compared to Burgundy's Chardonnay-based wines, and it's one of those varieties that genuinely surprises people when they try it for the first time.
Next time you see a bottle of Aligoté at your local wine shop, grab it. And if the person at the shop asks what you're looking for, try saying: "I want something crisp and mineral-driven, maybe a white Burgundy vibe but without the Chardonnay price tag." That's Aligoté in a nutshell.
Vine To Glass
Wine Of The Week: 2023 Balsall Creek Aligoté
When Emily and I visited Balsall Creek Vineyards this past weekend, I tasted through their full lineup. And while everything was lovely, the 2023 Aligoté stole the show for me.
I went home with a bottle — and I cannot wait to crack it open this weekend for July 4th.
The Producer
Balsall Creek is a family-run estate in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, just north of the Dundee Hills in Oregon's Willamette Valley. Founded by Jon and Lesli Owens, the couple has deep roots in Oregon — Jon's family goes back eight generations in the state, with his ancestors traveling the Oregon Trail in 1850 and settling just miles from where the vineyard sits today.
The Owens spent decades traveling the world as wine enthusiasts — visiting vineyards and wineries across France, Italy, Chile, South Africa, and Australia — before finally making the leap to start their own project. They purchased 35 acres of farmland, including 15 acres of established vines, and planted 5 additional acres of hand-selected clones. The whole vineyard is LIVE Certified, Salmon Safe, and Bee Friendly Farming Certified. It's dry-farmed, hand-harvested, and even runs on solar energy.
Their wines are made in collaboration with Laurent Montalieu at NW Wine Company, and they grow an impressive range of estate varietals: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Meunier, and — the star of today's newsletter — Aligoté. It's one of the broadest sets of estate-grown offerings in the Willamette Valley.
Their Aligoté comes from two small blocks on the estate totaling less than one acre. The very first vintage in 2023 was just 79 cases — a tiny, tiny production.
What I Tasted
This wine absolutely captured me with its minerality. It had this gorgeous wet rock, almost stony quality that I don't encounter often in white wines from Oregon. There was a subtle savory-ness to it — not heavy or funky, just this quiet depth underneath the bright fruit. I also picked up notes of green apple and peach.
It was totally different from Chardonnay, and that's exactly what I loved about it. It felt lean, energetic, and refreshing. There's an approachability and a brightness to it that feels welcoming, not intimidating.
What I'd Pair It With
This wine is begging for food. Here's what I'd reach for:
- Grilled white fish or shrimp with lemon
- Oysters on the half shell
- Goat cheese and fresh herb salads
- Roasted chicken with herbs
- Asparagus, snap peas, or grilled summer vegetables
- Light pasta dishes — pesto, lemon-butter, or olive oil-based
- Fresh crab or lobster rolls
- A charcuterie board with briny olives
- Chips and dip on the patio would work beautifully here too!
This is the kind of wine that pairs with summer itself.
Why It's This Week's Pick
If you can get your hands on a bottle from Balsall Creek, I'd say it's very much worth seeking out.
You can find it here: balsallcreek.com
Cork Report
This Week’s Wine News Roundup
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The Best Wine Pairings for Summer BBQs, Picnics, and More
- Thieves Steal $320,000 of DRC from Milan Steak House
- 3 Moments That Changed How America Drinks Wine
